When a Brazilian falls in love with the Alentejo

When a Brazilian falls in love with the Alentejo

A passion for travel and a desire to see the world brought Michele Marques to Portugal. Brazilian and used to long voyages, she chose this corner of Europe due to the familiarity with the language and, above all, because she had friends here.

Backpack aside, she always gave a hand when it was time to prepare family meals. And, like many cooks, her story in the kitchen began later in life. She studied communications to become a journalist but, once again, a trip played with her destiny. In Italy, she took a cooking course for beginners that brought back memories, and that was when everything changed – back in Portugal, she enrolled in the Escola de Hotelaria e Turismo de Portalegre hotel and tourism school. From then on, her future evolved naturally and shortly after she was training with chef João Rodrigues at Restaurante Feitoria, in Lisbon.
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The Alentejo tranquillity, the richness of the cuisine and the people’s hospitality convinced her that Estremoz was the right place to settle. She was determined to open a space that was different from everything else in the region. A place where you can go for a glass of wine, to enjoy a meal with family and friends, and take products home. The premise was there and the good relationship with Portuguese producers gave the final push to open Mercearia Gadanha in 2009. The success started to grow and this small business began making headway, with clientele from all over. Four years later, Michele felt the need to expand the space and the concept. By 2013, this Brazilian dreamer was preparing major Alentejo delicacies as if these were the flavours she had always grown up with. The idea had never been to compete with the memories of mom or grandma’s dishes, she didn’t want that pressure, so she decided to combine her own memories, roots and experiences with Portuguese cuisine.
«It’s funny. I grew up watching my grandmother make cod fritters, for example. I find Portuguese seasoning and bases are much like ours. My mother used to make a soup that was just like Sopa da Pedra. In my kitchen, I add some of what I learned from my parents.»
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«Brazil has had great Portuguese influence since the Discoveries. This is also evident in the food. The Portuguese carried a culinary history in their ships that, to this day, has had an undeniable effect in every region in Brazil. In turn, Brazilians adapted recipes to what was available in their region – there is an enormous wealth of ingredients. Added to this, there are also indigenous and African influences. It’s funny. I grew up watching my grandmother make cod fritters, for example. I find Portuguese seasoning and bases are much like ours. My mother used to make a soup that was just like Sopa da Pedra. In my kitchen, I add some of what I learned from my parents. And maybe those memories are what I bring to each dish» Michele Marques.
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Surrounding herself with the right people was also a crucial factor, and tia Manuela, an ‘auntie’ close to her heart that she gained here in Portugal, appeared along the way. Over the years, she has been one of Michele’s greatest inspirations and advisors on traditional Portuguese cuisine. Among many, Pezinhos de Coentrada (Pig Trotters) was one of the dishes Michele learned from this ‘tia’, and which she has recreated to provide a fresh touch.

For those who’ve never been, the story and treats provided by Michele and her team make visiting Mercearia Gadanha, in Estremoz, worthwhile.